Thursday, September 18, 2014

Pattern - Alternate Double V-Stitch Dishcloth


Here is the pattern for the Double V-Stitch Dishcloth pictured in the "Peachy/Green" kitchen set. The directions for the edging only seem complicated. I wrote directions for each side because the top and bottom are different from the sides. The key to an edging is to simply crochet evenly around all sides. If my directions seem complicated just put the stitches in evenly and call it good.

Alternate Double V-Stitch Dishcloth
 medium weight cotton yarn 
size “G” crochet hook 

Foundation: Ch 39 

Row 1: 2 dc into the 5th ch from hook. **Ch 1, 2 dc into next ch, miss 3 ch, (1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc) into next ch. Miss 3 ch. 2 dc into next ch.** Repeat instructions between ** across, ending last repeat when 2 ch remain. Miss 1 ch, 1 dc into last ch. Ch 3, turn.
Row 2: (Turning chain counts as first dc.) Miss first stitch.** Work (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) into next 2-ch space. Work (1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc) into next ch-1 space.** Repeat between ** across, ending with a dc in top of turning ch.
Rows 3-14: (or until fabric is approximately square) Repeat row 2. Finish off and weave in ends. 

Edging Round 1: Cast on in corner just finished with a contrasting color of yarn. Ch 2. Sc in space at bottom of ch-2. Ch 2. Sc in end of the last row worked. (Ch 2, sc) in end of each row across side, ending with a sc in the top of the beginning row. (Ch 2, sc) around dc post in beginning row twice. Corner turned. Ch 2. Miss the first stitch at bottom of double V-stitch. Sc in the next stitch at the bottom of the double V-stitch.*(Ch 2, sc ) in next two ch-3 spaces. Miss the next stitch. (Ch 2, sc) in next stitch at the bottom of the double V-stitch. Repeat from * three more times across the bottom, ending with a sc in the last stitch. (Ch 2, sc) around post in beginning row. (Ch 2, sc) in end of first row. (Ch 2, sc) in ends of each row across side. (Ch 2, sc) twice around post at beginning of the last row. Corner turned. **(Ch 2, sc) in top of double V-stitch. . (Ch 2, sc) in space at top of single V-stitch.** Repeat between ** across top. (Ch 2, sc in ch-2 space at beginning of round.

Edging Round 2: Ch 2, dc in same stitch. (sc, ch 2, dc) in each ch 2 space around. End with a sl st in the sc at beginning of round. Finish off.

Sunday, September 14, 2014

Pattern - Diagonal Dishcloth


Here is the pattern for the striped diagonal dishcloths that were shared in the post about the "Peachy/Green" kitchen set. The dishcloth in this picture was crocheted without changing colors. If you wanted stripes, you would just change colors at the end of a row. I am loving this pattern!  It is very quick and easy. I can make a set in no time at all.

Diagonal Dishcloth
medium weight cotton yarn
size “H” crochet hook

Row 1: Ch 4, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in fourth chain from the hook. (First 3 skipped chains count as the first dc). Row 2: Ch 3, turn. (ch-3 counts as the first dc in this and subsequent rows.) Dc in next dc, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch-2 space, dc in next two dc. Row 3: Ch 3, turn. Dc in next dc and in each dc across to next ch-2 space. (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in corner space. Dc in each dc across. Row 4-12: (or until desired size is reached) Repeat row 3. Finish off and weave in ends.

Edging: Cast on in top corner. 3 sc in corner space. (Sc, ch 2 dc) around post at the end of each row across the side. (Sc, ch 2, dc) around post at corner. (Skip next dc, sc, ch 2, dc in next dc) evenly around next 2 sides. (Sc, ch 2, dc) around posts across last side. Slip stitch in sc at beginning of round.

Saturday, September 13, 2014

Link - A Young Girl's Hope Chest



I found a lovely blog post about a young girl's hope chest this morning. Kristy Smith Howard shared her story at a lovely blog called Kindred Grace. If you are interested in hope chests, you'll be ever so glad you read it.

Monday, September 8, 2014

Peachy/Green Kitchen Set


I made these dishcloths some time ago using yarn from my stash and my favorite granny square pattern. I liked the mix of colors so much that I decided to do a kitchen set for Miss Abigail's hope chest using these colors. The stack has grown over the last month. Here are the pictures.











The pattern for the ruffled dishmop, using crochet thread is found here. I used a thin cotton yarn for this set and only put 4 rows on, plus the last single crochet border. The regular worsted weight cotton yarn is just too thick for this pattern. However, a sport weight cotton yarn, like Paton's "Grace" yarn or another "light"  worsted weight (#2 or #3) seems okay with fewer rows worked.

I have patterns written for the edging and the other two dishcloths. Watch for separate posts for these. Soon, I hope.


Wednesday, August 27, 2014

Tutorial - Scalloped Ticking Stripe Hand Towel


This is an example of a hand towel made from 100% cotton "ticking stripe" fabric. I have almost finished what I am calling the "peachy/green" kitchen set and a set of two of these hand towels are part of that set. One yard of ticking fabric, along with 1/4 yard of a matching cotton print for the facing, made two towels.


The first step was to pre-shrink both fabrics and cut the towels to size. My towels were cut 20 inches in width by 28 inches in length. I used a large manilla envelope like a t-square and drew a line across the bottom of both ends of the towel to square them up.

Then I used a scrapbooking design tool draw a scalloped edge along the line at both ends of the towel. To make the scallops even I began with the center of a scallop in the middle of the towel. If you want to do the math to adjust the size of the scallops and make them come out even on the edges you may do so, I just made the scallops on the edges a little bigger to take up any extra space.


Next, I turned and pressed the side edges to make a 1/2-inch hem along the sides of the towel.


I cut four facing strips from the printed fabric that were 2 3/4-inches deep and the width of the towel. I turned and pressed a 1/2-inch hem across the long edge of each strip. I placed the facing, with right sides together, matching the bottom edge of the towel and pinned.

I used the innermost pressed line of the towel side hem as a guide and sewed down the side of the hem facing and then followed the penciled lines to sew around the scallops across the bottom of the towel. I finished with the far side edge.


I trimmed the seam and clipped the curves and points.


I turned the faced hem and carefully pressed the scallops, tucking under the side hems and pinning across the top edge of the hem.


Then I sewed the hem closed, keeping as close to the edge as possible.

 
I pressed again and repeated the process on the other end. The towel is finished.


Saturday, August 23, 2014

A Peek Inside - Painted Wall Hook


A couple of months ago I attended the State 4-H Home Ec School. This event is one of the highlights of my 4-H year and this year was no exception. I was in the track to learn about Interior Design. An instructor taught us a little bit about recycling old things into new things for the home and introduced this wall hook project. I was given an old oak drawer front. I painted it orange, attached the hooks to it and there it was - an old board turned into something nice and useful. Now I don't have to pay a small fortune to buy the same thing at Hobby Lobby. Sometimes recycling can be really great! And, I love having something so nice to put into my hope chest.

Respectfully submitted by Miss Abigail.

Friday, August 8, 2014

Fabric for Kitchen Linens


I recently had an e-mail question about what kinds of fabric make good kitchen linens. This reader was interested in saving some money by sewing and decorating her own kitchen towels. I think this is a great question and thought perhaps more than she is interested in the subject.

The picture shows my favorite fabrics for making towels and other kitchen linens.

1. This is a soft "ticking" fabric. It is 100% cotton and usually 45 inches wide, sometimes 60 inches. It is called ticking because the twill weave and stripe pattern is typical of what is called pillow ticking - the fabric that used to cover pillows. There is a stiffer ticking - more like canvas, but you want to find the softer, towel-like fabric. I like to make kitchen hand towels from ticking and it works also for aprons. You can find ticking in the utility fabrics section of the store.

2. This is a plain weave fabric from the section of the fabric store called the "bottom weights." This is the fabric that is meant for making pants and skirts and other "bottom" garments. There are a number of choices for hand towels and aprons in the bottom weight section, but you want to be sure to look for 100% cotton fabric (or linen - but that would defeat the money savings wouldn't it!) The fabric could be either a plain weave or a twill weave - either one would work. Bottom weight fabric would also make nice place mats, napkins, or a small tablecloth.

3. Flannel makes a great kitchen hand towel. I like to sew two panels together to make it thick enough and then quilt or otherwise stitch it to hold it together. I like the many patterns and prints now available! Diaper flannel (if you can find it) and quilters flannel are sometimes a little thicker than regular flannel. The more you wash flannel, the better it gets. Flannel also works for dishcloths.

4. This is a piece of diaper fabric. You can buy diaper flannel, but diaper fabric is woven in a "birds eye" weave. It is 100% cotton and is 36 inches wide. Diapers, even the ones you buy already made (get the open, flat kind, NOT the pre folded ones) are truly wonderful dishtowels! I had a set in my own hope chest, painted with liquid embroidery by my cousin.

5. Monks Cloth is a thick, 100% cotton plain weave fabric that is usually 60 inches wide. The weave is very large and looks like huge cross stitch fabric. You can cross stitch on it and the pattern develops quickly! I also like to do Swedish Weaving on this fabric. It makes a very nice kitchen hand towel and maybe dishcloths as well. It would make a nice table cloth or place mats with cross-stitching.

6. This is a 100% cotton "waffle weave" fabric, sometimes called waffle weave muslin. It is also 60 inches wide. I love this fabric for making dishtowels and dishcloths, but you have to preshrink it even before measuring it as it shrinks so much. Just plan for that. It is a wonderfully thirsty fabric and lends itself to several kinds of decorating. You can see one example of hand made dishtowels here and another one here. The first link doesn't mention preshrinking. I certainly would do that first! Waffle weave fabric is found in the utility fabric section of the store, along with the muslin and ticking.

7. This is 100% cotton fabric called "homespun." This fabric makes really great dishtowels! I have several in my own kitchen drawer. Just be sure to get 100% cotton. You can find homespun with the quilting cottons in the fabric store. I have made this and this set for the hope chest so far.

8. These are two plain weave 100% cotton prints that I found in the "home dec" section of the fabric store. This fabric is often labeled dry clean only, but I use it for hand towels and aprons and place mats, napkins and tablecloths. I don't dry clean them. I usually just wash them on warm and dry on the clothesline. I understand that the fabric is labeled thus because the manufacturing is so variable that it might shrink (a lot or unevenly!) or it might "crock" (which means that heavily dyed fabric transfers excess dye to other fabric), or fade or exhibit any number of other problems. So I just take a chance because there are some wonderful choices in this section. I have never had any problems, but that doesn't mean you won't... When I make things for the hope chest, I try to always pre-wash and pre-shrink - so that fifteen years from now Abigail doesn't get a nasty surprise when she does laundry.

9. This is 100% cotton terry cloth. The width varies, usually 45 or 60 inches wide. It could used for hand towels and dishcloths. A pretty cotton print bias edging looks very pretty.

10. This fabric is called "huck" toweling or huckaback. It is narrow, usually only 15 inches wide and the edges are finished with a selvage. Huck toweling has a distinctive vertical raised thread in the weave and is most often used for Swedish Weaving decoration and other embroidery. It is soft and absorbent and makes a nice kitchen towel or tray cloth.

There is one more fabric that I use for dishtowels, but I didn't have any to put in the picture. Osnaburg fabric is found with the rest of the muslins in the fabric store and is a little bit thicker than regular muslin. It is more like homespun and it makes great dishtowels. It is 100% cotton, usually 45 or 60 inches wide and comes mainly in a natural darkish tan color. Osnaburg is a plain weave, so it frays nicely and it takes embroidery really well. It needs to be washed a couple of times before it is nicely absorbent.

Speaking of muslin, I have read that some people make dishtowels from muslin. I keep meaning to try - it is very inexpensive and would lend itself to many decorative techniques. When I look at it, though, it seems to be woven so tightly that I can't imagine that it would be very absorbent. Maybe someone has experience with it...

Just a quick comment about price. Sometimes new fabric can be more expensive than just looking for a good deal on ready-made linens. I always watch for the sales or use a 40% coupon to get the best deal, and usually have a stack of "hope chest" fabric in a stash, waiting for the next creative project!
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