Table Runner with Crocheted Trim

I finished this neutral colored table runner to use for simple everyday meals and it would look great under an easy buffet meal on the kitchen counter. I used my own pattern for the crocheted lace - here is the photo tutorial for the Scalloped Net Edging.

This runner also matches the Granny Round Soup Mats for a fun winter soup party.

Antique Store Crocheted Edgings

I recently visited a small antique mall in Albuquerque where I immediately sought out the linens in all the booths. I've mentioned before that I love to stir through piles of antique linens and wonder about the lives and stories behind the needlework. On this day I found several "antique" pillowcases with crocheted edgings. I put the term in quotes because I don't think they are antiques, used yes, but probably not antique. The fabric and thread did not match in age. Possibly someone crocheted on the edge of pre-owned pillowcases. These pink pillowcases were worn, but the thread is pretty new and not laundered as often. But I thought the edging pattern was pretty and so I took a picture with my phone. I can deduce the pattern quite easily so I'll probably use it on something for the hope chest.

I can see that the person who crocheted this edging used a single thread to hand sew a foundation on the edge of the pillowcase, creating the spaces for the initial row of double crochet stitches. The initial crocheted row is simply a (3 dc, ch 1) in each space around the pillowcase. The second row is (2 dc, ch 1) in each ch-1 space from the previous row. It may work out to be (2 dc, ch 2) rather than the ch 1. I'll have to experiment to determine that. The third row looks like (sc, ch 4) in each space from the previous row. The final row is also (sc, ch 4). It is a pretty pattern and I'm happy to have stumbled on it.

Here is a second edging. The initial foundation and the first row is the same, and I think it was crocheted by the same person, but I'll have to work on figuring out the pattern...

The initial foundation and first row is again the same in this third example. I'll have to experiment with this pattern also.

Tutorial: Scalloped Net Crochet Edging

I especially like this scalloped net crochet edging for a kitchen hand towel. It has become one of my go-to edgings because it looks a little bit fancy, but is still quite easy and quick. This simple pattern makes a very nice edge on a pillowcase as well.

Materials:
Kitchen towel
#10 size crochet cotton (I used DMC Cebelia for this project)
Size 7 (1.65 mm) steel crochet hook (USA)
Tapestry needle

Begin by marking the foundation on the towel. This edging has 5 rows, an odd number, so you can mark and begin with the right side of the towel facing you. I usually put the marks 3/8-inch apart. I made a simple cardboard template to help me mark. It is much easier to see than a ruler. Use a marking pen with removable or disappearing ink. You will want to have an even number of spaces across the towel. Depending on the total width of the piece, you may need to adjust the width of the spaces so that you come out even.

Push a hole through the edge of the towel with an embroiderer's awl. Push the awl through the holes and keep ahead of your crochet about 6 or 7 holes. If you make too many hole at once, they will just close before you can get to them. No use wasting your time. If your towel has a looser weave in the hem, you may not have to use an awl. Sometimes you can just push the hook through the fabric at the mark. There are also special "sharpened" crochet hooks that you can use to pierce the fabric as well. Since I have an awl, I use it.

Foundation Row: Cast on in the first mark at the right side and chain 3. Put a (sc, ch 4) in each hole across the front of the towel, ending with a sc in the last mark at the left edge of the towel. Chain 2 and turn.

Row 1: Sc in the first ch-4 space. Ch 4. (Sc, ch 4) in each ch-4 space across, ending with a sc in the last ch-4 space. Chain 3 and sc in the cast on stitch. Chain 2 and turn.

Row 2: Sc in the first ch-3 space, ch 4. (Sc, ch 4) in each ch-4 space across, ending with a sc in the last ch-2 space. Ch 2 and turn.

Row 3: Sc in first ch-2 space. Ch 4. (Sc, ch 4) in each ch-4 space across, ending with a sc in the last ch-2 space. Ch 2 and turn.

Row 4: Sc in the first ch-4 space. *Make 7 dc in the next ch-4 space. Sc in the next space. Repeat from * across to the last ch-2 space. Sc in this last space and fasten off.

Weave in the ends. I use a tapestry needle to weave down the stitches of the end rows.

At the bottom of the stitches I push the needle into the towel and along the hem of the towel for about four to six inches and then bring the thread up out of the towel.

Then I pull it a little to create some tension and clip the thread so that it pulls back into the hem of the towel. This creates a "lost thread" in the hem and I don't have to worry about it.

 The finished edging is pretty don't you think?

If you like this edging, you may also like my "Posies Edging" tutorial. Posies is also scalloped, but the scallops are smaller and more shallow. The overall look is a bit more blocky.

Tutorial: Granny Square Edging

I want to show you the simple edging I've been using on my granny square dishcloths. This first picture shows the completed granny square. This pattern is Abigail's 4H granny square dishcloth, with a couple of rows of contrast colored yarn included in it. End the square and weave in the ends.

Attach contrasting colored yarn in any corner and chain three.

Put 2 dc in the corner space immediately below the ch-3.

Put a sc in the next space.

Chain 3.

In the same space, put 2 dc.

Sc in the next space.

Ch 3, 2 dc in same space. Continue across the side putting (sc, ch 3, 2 dc) in each space until you reach the corner space.

Sc in the corner space.

2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc in the same corner space.

Continue around the edge of the dishcloth, putting (sc, ch 3, 2 dc) in each space and (sc, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in each corner space. When you reach the last (technically the first) corner, put (sc, 2 dc, ch 2) in that space. Finish off with a slip stitch in the top of the original ch-3. Fasten off and weave in the ends.

That's it!

Crochet Edged Baby Blankets

So, I've been to Idaho and had a nice long visit with my mom. Of course, while I was there I made several visits to my very favorite craft store (this post explains why I would) and found a number of treasures for Miss Abigail's hope chest. My mom is elderly now and so we tend to just sit and visit. This gives me a wonderful opportunity to do handwork. These pretty two-layer flannel receiving blankets are sold in Porter's as a kit project. The pieces are cut and basted and then machine hemstitched around the raw edge. Machine hemstitching creates beautiful, evenly-spaced holes all along the edge of the blanket, which is perfect for crochet.

Hemstitching was originally a hand sewing technique. Actually, it still is. However, in 1893, a hemstitching machine was developed to mimic this hand-stitching. The most common hemstitching machines had a double needle and double bobbins with a sharp piercer that made holes in the fabric and the two separate needles that sewed the hole open. The hemstitching machines were produced commercially during the early 1900's and were very popular with home sewers in the 1930's and 40's. There are still some hemstitching machines being manufactured but they now cost thousands of dollars. Lucky you if someone in your family owns an antique machine. They are very sturdy and many are still in use. I don't know who sews the hemstitch on these blankets for the store, but I do know they are produced locally. Since I can't find them anywhere else, I always try to get one when I go to Idaho.

There are lots of different designs and patterns for the edging. I'm going to show you how I made the edging for these blankets. The pattern was on a free flyer hanging near the kits and thread. The pattern is called "Xs and Os" and naturally, I had to change it because I liked a half-double crochet stitch better than a single. For this blue blanket, I used DMC Cebelia thread, size 10, with a size 7 steel crochet hook. The second picture shows a close up of the hemstitched edge.

Xs and Os Crochet Edging (US stitches) 

In any hole, cast on with a single crochet. *Skip one hole, half-double crochet in the next hole, chain 3, half-double crochet into the skipped hole. Repeat from *. End with a single crochet in the beginning hole. Fasten off.

As the pattern directs, begin in any hole with a single crochet. Skip the next hole and then make a half-double crochet in the following hole. (Because I wasn't taking pictures of my crocheting in Idaho, this picture shows a continuation of the pattern already begun. Sorry.) Chain three.

Come back and make a half-double crochet in the previously skipped hole. The chain three makes a pretty O and the half-doubles create the X. Just continue the pattern all the way around.

The blue/green blanket was 36-inches square. This pretty purple/green blanket kit is 45-inches square and had a burp cloth included as well. I tried a shiny nylon variegated thread for this blanket, but think I prefer the cotton DMC. Same size thread and hook and the blue.

Short of taking a trip to Rexburg, Idaho, I can't tell you where to find these blankets. There are some hemstitching businesses online. I Googled hemstitched baby blankets, and saw a number of choices. When I do edges without the benefit of hemstitching, I just use the embroidery awl technique that I posted about here. You can try using a single wing needle on your regular zig-zag sewing machine. Several heritage clothing sites have directions or tutorials for this technique, or check You tube for this video that explains how. The wing needle produces holes that can be closer together than the machine hemstitching. Perhaps you can adjust the stitch length or, depending on the crochet pattern you may need to make adjustments to the pattern. For instance, use a single-crochet for the Xs and Os pattern instead of the half-double crochet, or skip more than one hole.

Although I am still working on the Pink and Brown kitchen set, for some reason, babies are on my mind. I'm glad to have these blankets finished for the hope chest.

"Garden Series" Crochet Edgings: #3-Jonquils

I love this third edging. "Jonquils" is a little more difficult, but not much. The picot stitches on top of the double crochets remind me of the ruffled heads of jonquils on long thin stems, hence the name.

Note: The front and back of crochet stitches look different, as you would expect. I want the smooth front side of the double crochet in this edging to show on the front of the towel, so I am careful to begin the foundation row with the back side of the towel facing me. If mark the towel and start on the back, I'll be ready to turn the towel and do Row 1 on the front. Row 2 shows the back of the picot stitches, but I think it is prettier to show the front of the double crochet. It may not matter at all to you which side of which row shows...

Again, you'll begin the Foundation Row as in the Garden Fence edging. Use a washable marking pen to mark 3/8-inch marks across the edge. Push an embroidery awl through the first mark to make a tiny hole. Pull up the thread and make the first slip knot. Chain 4. (Use the awl to make several more holes at the marks. Stay ahead of your crochet about 8-10 holes.) *Sc, ch 3 in the next mark. Repeat from * across. (See the pictures in the tutorial at the link above if you need help with pictures of this foundation row.)

Row 1: Ch 1; turn. Sc in the first ch-3 space. Ch 3, 4 dc in next ch-3 space. Ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 space. [Ch 3, 4 dc in next ch-3 space. Ch 3, sc in next ch-3 space] across, ending with the sc in the end space.

Row 2: Ch 3 and turn. Skip the ch-3 space. Sc in the first dc of group of 4 dc. Ch 3, sc in next dc. Ch 3, sc in next dc. Ch 3, sc in last dc of group. Ch 3, skip ch-3 space, sc in next sc.  Repeat [Ch 3, skip ch-3 space, sc in first dc. (Ch 3, sc in next dc) three times. Ch 3, skip ch-3 space, sc in sc] across. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Hopefully, the following pictures expand the directions for Row 2.